Case Study / Pure Romantic (Till The End)
Introduction/Abstract
Pure Romantic (Till the End) is a black canvas outerwear jacket, overlaid with black and onyx lace. The garment is informed by traditional waxed cotton jackets commonly worn in the UK, drawing on established outerwear archetypes. While certain defining features of this classic style are directly reinterpreted, others are intentionally manipulated to challenge and evolve the original form.
This case study aims to provide the client or viewer with a clear understanding of the design process and the techniques employed, and how these decisions directly inform the final outcome. By addressing the what, how, and why of the project, the development of the garment can be systematically deconstructed, offering insight into the conceptual and technical journey from initial inspiration to completion.
The following images and accompanying text document and communicate the key stages of this process.
What
The garment is constructed through the juxtaposition of a robust base fabric and a delicate outer layer. This contrast is central to both the aesthetic and tactile qualities of the piece. The jacket is composed of the following materials:
British Millerain — Sahara 10 StayWax® Waxed Canvas (Black)
A heavyweight waxed canvas featuring a StayWax® finish, offering a drier handle than traditional waxed fabrics. The material retains a soft feel while providing water resistance and durability, making it suitable for functional outerwear.
Solstiss Lace — Metallic Lace (Polyester, Polyamide, Viscose)
A lightweight lace with a scalloped edge and subtle metallic sheen. The fabric catches the light at certain angles, altering its appearance through movement. While slightly coarse to the touch, it remains airy and delicate, creating contrast against the structured canvas beneath.
Lampo Zipper — Custom Hardware (Italy)
A bespoke Lampo zipper manufactured in Italy, featuring pewter-toned teeth, puller, and slider, paired with black cotton tape.
The final garment is a heavyweight waxed canvas jacket layered with delicate lace. Both fabrics are predominantly black, allowing the lace to remain understated until light reveals its metallic detailing, which becomes a defining feature of the piece. The jacket features an oversized collar designed to be worn either raised or folded down. Large waist pockets are lined with silk habotai, introducing an element of refinement and enhancing comfort.
To complete the garment, the lace is hand-attached at the collar, sleeve hems, and body hem. This finishing process is carried out by the BrunsClifford team following production, ensuring each jacket is unique and individually finished.
Why
Traditional waxed cotton jackets are defined by their durability and longevity. Designed as hard-wearing outerwear, they are intended to be used, worked in, and exposed to the elements—garments that are rarely washed and instead develop character over time, ageing in a manner comparable to leather. At BrunsClifford, our design language draws from these established archetypes, selectively subverting key features and signifiers to reframe them for a contemporary lifestyle.
In developing this piece, the foundational elements of the jacket were intentionally preserved. The waxed canvas, sourced from the UK, is a robust 385gsm fabric chosen for its resilience and performance. Functional components such as a large standing collar for weather protection—designed to be worn up or down—a strong yet refined zipper closure, and generously sized pockets for warmth and practicality remain central to the design. These elements form the core structure from which the garment evolves.
The areas of transformation are where the conceptual narrative emerges. This iteration explores the tension and interplay between traditionally masculine and feminine aesthetics. Historically, waxed cotton jackets are rooted in masculine utility. By introducing a lace outer layer, the garment is softened and recontextualised. The delicate, light-catching lace acts as a counterpoint to the strength of the canvas beneath, overlaying durability with grace and restraint.
Through this contrast, the jacket speaks to a fluid approach to wearability, transcending gendered boundaries and embracing inclusivity. The relationship between lace and canvas also encourages a heightened awareness of texture, weight, and care. While the base fabric is designed to endure, the lace outer shell introduces vulnerability, prompting a more considered and mindful interaction with the garment.
How
When initiating a new design, the process follows a consistent framework. Each project begins with an idea—sometimes emerging spontaneously, other times evolving from previous work. In this instance, the jacket developed as an evolution of an earlier, simplified version made in waxed cotton. During that process, the concept of juxtaposition became increasingly compelling: pairing a robust, utilitarian fabric with a delicate lace overlay.
The early stages of development are documented through notebook sketches and process imagery, which provide insight into the conceptual exploration prior to working on the mannequin. These initial investigations allow the idea to be refined before moving into physical construction.
Once the concept is resolved and distinct within the context of my wider body of work, a base block is developed to suit the required silhouette. From this point, the design is mapped through flat pattern cutting and progressed into toiling. This particular garment underwent three toile iterations, followed by one to two lace variations, as documented in the accompanying images. Several canvas weights were tested to achieve the desired balance of structure and presence; the final choice was intentionally thick and heavyweight.
The jacket is constructed with an oversized fit to allow for ease of movement, particularly as the waxed canvas has little to no stretch. This consideration ensures both comfort and functionality while maintaining the integrity of the silhouette.
Conclusion
Through extensive iteration and testing, the project culminated in a design outcome that fully realises the original concept. From the initial idea of merging the strength and utility of waxed canvas with the delicacy of lace, to the hand-finished details that ensure each garment is unique, every stage of the process has directly informed the final piece. This case study traces that journey, illustrating how concept, material, and technique converge.
The development of the garment was a considered and evolving process. Achieving the final sleeve construction, collar form, and overall silhouette required multiple iterations and refinements. While technically demanding, this extended development period was essential in defining the character and balance of the design.
It is our intention that this form of communication allows the work to be seen, understood, and appreciated by those who encounter it. The thinking behind each piece is deliberate and in-depth, yet remains accessible through transparent and authentic documentation of the process. By presenting the journey as openly as the outcome, the garment becomes not only a finished object, but a record of design exploration and intent.
Pure Romantic (Till The End) available now